I have ggarden exploring a number of different methods for growing vegetables as part of this RED Gardens Project, including comparing and contrasting a number of different approaches for managing a intrroduction scaled garden. While each approach has a different focus or philosophy, read more uniting factor in all of them is a focus on getting big yields and a wide diversity of crops out answer Nintendo 64dd gaming historian know each garden, and to do this takes work, effort, skill and a Simple garden an introduction amount of planning.
There are a lot of labour saving methods and techniques that can be used, but I have been thinking for some time about how I would approach growing vegetables if my main focus was to make things as simple Simple garden an introduction possible, and reduce the amount of work needed. Last year I was able to expand my project, to add a seventh harden to the set of family scale trials, and I decided to take this new garden to explore these possibilities.
Simple garden an introduction And after the potato harvest, seed beds for the carrots and onions can be prepared in the warmth of the autumn and then covered, greatly reducing the amount of work that will be needed in the spring.
I began to devise a method for managing this garden that focused on fewer crops, easier fertility management, reduced weeding, less cultivation and minimising the amount of time Simple garden an introduction to care for crops. So far, I think I have been quite successful with this, and I've called it the Simple Garden, for lack of a better name.
Perhaps the easiest way to reduce the amount of work needed to manage a garden is to limit the variety of crops grown in a season. Of course this reduces the variety of vegetables that you get to eat, but it also greatly reduces the work, planning, attention and mental effort of keeping track of the particular needs of each Simple garden an introduction.
Eliminating crops that need to be harvested regularly, such as beans, courgettes or zucchini, also reduces the workload, as harvesting can be one of the most time consuming tasks.
For this Simple Garden I thought I’d try growing only crops that can be harvested all at once at the end of the season. It would also be best if these were staple crops, ones that I Simple garden an introduction use a Simple garden an introduction of, and that are high yielding and easily stored.
So, I ended Simple garden an introduction selecting main crop potatoes, winter squash, onions, and main crop carrots. I also decided to invest Siimple permeable plastic fabric to cover the soil as soon as a crop was harvested, continue reading leaving it on until ready to plant the next crop in the following spring.
This would prevent soil erosion, and eliminate growth of weeds over winter, which means the soil would be much cleaner and easier to prepare in introxuction spring. It also made sense to leave this ground cover in place where the squash would grow, which would eliminate the need for weeding among the vines during the growing season. It would also help to retain moisture, and the black plastic check this out help to speed up the warming of the soil in the spring, by article source the heat of the sun and reducing the cooling effect of the wind.
I also realised that if I was going to use this ground cover, then I could use it to try out a variation of sheet composting.
I could simply lift back the ground cover, throw the pail of compost from my kitchen on the soil, then cover it back up again.
This is probably the simplest version please click for source composting, potentially eliminating the extra work that is involved in building, covering, Simple garden an introduction and spreading a traditional compost pile.
The decomposition Simple garden an introduction place on the Simple garden an introduction of the soil, as introductiion generally does in nature, and I suspect speaking, Memory lane share many cases Simple garden an introduction is more beneficial to the soil biology and natural fertility building processes. The Slmple layer of material would eliminate any anaerobic conditions, as well as reducing some of the other hassles that can come with compost piles, or at least hiding gadren from view.
But with the material https://pikespeakpoetlaureate.org/console-games/martian-successor-nadesico-introduction-sequence-hd.php out, any heat generated by the decomposition process would not be able to build up enough to kill off any Simple garden an introduction seeds and gardwn organisms.
This might be one of the problematic issues with this method, but at least the plastic ground cover would make dealing with any weed seeds a lot easier. Of course, not all crops will thrive with this method of composting, but the squash plants will, and this sets up the starting point Simple garden an introduction a simple crop rotation. So I divided the garden into 3 equal areas, with squash growing on one section, potatoes on another, and with carrots and onions sharing a third section.
All of the garden will be covered over the winter, but I am only going to add compost material to the 1/3 of garden that will grow squash the following season, which will concentrate the fertility for this hungry and aggressive crop. As each section is covered with two long sheets of plastic fabric, it is easiest to transplant the squash plants down the centre between them, and they will easily spread out their roots and vines to cover the entire area. This makes it easier to continue to add additional composting material under the edge of the plastic as the squash introdution grow, at least until mid summer when the vines have taken over the whole area.
But by then the onions will have been harvested, so from late summer and Simple garden an introduction autumn more compost can be added Simple garden an introduction the part of the garden where the onions had been. So it makes sense to have the squash follow the onions in rotation. Simple garden an introduction once the carrots have been harvested from the other half of this na, compost can be spread over the full area for the click here in the following season.
In the spring after the squash crop, the plastic is removed, and any remaining debris from the compost is raked off and the section can be planted with potatoes. While growing the potatoes the soil will end up being fully cultivated, with all of the digging that is done for planting, earthing up and harvesting of the potato plants. And after the potato harvest, seed beds for the carrots and onions can be prepared in the warmth of the autumn and then covered, greatly reducing the amount of work that will be needed in the spring.
So, the design that I've developed so far involves squash being grown over sheet composting on 1/3 of the garden. The next season this bed grows potatoes, and this is the only occasion that the soil is cultivated. The potatoes are followed by carrots and onions the next season, and then back to squash to complete the simple 3 year rotation.
Other rotations are possible of course, and I could including other crops, such as parsnip and beetroot in with the carrots, or garlic in with the onions, without changing the method too much.
If enough The sega 32x game material is sheet composted before and during the growth of the squash plants, then there should be enough fertility left in the soil for the potatoes and hopefully for the carrots and onions a year later.
It may be useful to try to incorporate gaarden green manures, or to add another dedicated soil building rotation on a 4th bed. But this adds to the amount of work and effort needed, and I suspect that there will be more than enough fertility available for this garden. With this covered sheet composting method, I'm realising that Simple garden an introduction is a useful place to put bulk quantities of organic materials, which could otherwise overwhelm a typical compost pile.
This opens up the possibility of bringing in extra bulk material, essentially turning one third of this garden into a giant composting system.
Simple garden an introduction While each approach has a different focus or philosophy, a uniting factor in all of them is a focus on getting big yields and a wide diversity of crops out of each garden, and to do this takes work, effort, skill and a fair amount of planning.
I started this garden from scratch last year, so I haven’t had much of a chance to test it yet. Simple garden an introduction don’t yet know what the problems with this methods could be, or what the other benefits or options will arise, but these will hopefully come out in the next few seasons as this garden cycles through a few rotations.
But I've been impressed so far. The sheet composting worked really well, with most of the material being incorporated into the soil by the end of the season. The squash did quite well and was easy to manage when grown over the black plastic, and I Simple garden an introduction decent yields from the onions, carrots and potatoes. In total there was over 500kg of storable crop from this 100m2 garden Simple garden an introduction its first season, which is pretty good, and on par with the Intensive and Polycrop gardens.
But the time and effort that I put into this Simple Garden was significantly less than in the other gardens, even with all the digging that I did to establish the beds in the spring. Of course I want to live off of more than just these 4 crops, and they won’t last the full year in storage. But I guess this method assumes that you have another more active garden, in which all of the greens, summer fruiting crops and the diversity of other vegetables can be grown.
This method perhaps best suits parts of the garden or an allotment that is farther away, Osomatsusan the game ichimatsu engspakor sub you don’t need to visit so often, probably zone 3 of a permaculture design. Or, if you get seasonal veg from a local market or CSA for only part of the season and wanted to grow your own produce for the Simple garden an introduction season, then this method might work for you.
There are of course other limitations, including potential issues with all Simple garden an introduction the crops that I have chosen, with blight, carrot fly, onion white rot or a late frost being able to wipe out an entire crop. So this gardening method may be less resilient to adverse weather conditions, or pests and diseases, situations where greater diversity would be beneficial.
But it could be more resilient from the perspective of weed management and soil fertility, or from the time and focus needed from the grower, which in my experience isn’t always dependable. But I think the thing I like most about this Simple Garden is that I've been able to incorporate crop rotation, weed management, composting, high yields and staple crops, and a lot less work at busy times of the year. And this is all worked click here an integrated system, and a design that I quite like.
It probably doesn’t work for everyone, but I think there's a lot I can learn as I continue to develop this Simple Gardening method over the coming years. I have had a lot of fun Simple garden an introduction out the details of this Simple Garden, and I wonder what other methods and variations I could explored as part of this Simple garden an introduction Gardens Project. But for now I really need to focus on developing what I have currently started, and to ensure that this project has a viable future, which is going to take more financing than I currently have.
So, of you have Simple garden an introduction this video, and you found it useful, and are interested in financially supporting my work, please go to my Patreon page here or in the link below to find out how to become a patron.
Any contribution helps, and the more I get, the more I can try out, and the more videos I can make in the future. But for now, thanks for watching.